Kegerator Setup and Maintenance

Basics

If you haven't worked with the kegerator before, you can find a basic overview of how to use it here. Make sure the kegerator temperature is set to 3-4C and that it is cooling. Secure the CO2 cylinder using the anti-tipping strap on the side of the kegerator (the state of the high pressure gauge on the regulator is a lesson for why it is there) but don't try to move it with the cylinder attached.

We have A, G, and D type keg couplers which covers the vast majority of beers we get. We know there are breweries that use S type (European Sankey), and there are probably ones that use U type (Guiness) or M type, so confirm with the supplier. If you borrow a keg coupler from the brewery/supplier it will almost certainly come with 9.5mm push-in quick connect fittings on both the gas inlet and beer outlet. Our system is configured with 8 mm (5/16 in.) beer line and 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) gas line to avoid accidentally reversing the connections on the keg couplers. There are 9.5mm to 8mm adapters in the kegerator supply box, but remember: Gas goes into the side and beer comes out of top of the coupler! Reversing this will be messy and could destroy the regulator.

Make sure the faucets are attached and the handles in the closed position before engaging the keg coupler lever to tap the keg - liquid will immediately start flowing from the pressure in the keg even if the gas is off. If everything is connected and beer doesn't keep flowing, make sure the CO2 cylinder valve is completely open, the regulator output valve is open (inline with the tubing), and the manifold valve is open (also inline) for the beer you are dispensing. If all those conditions are met, check the low pressure gauge to see if someone mistakenly used the pressure adjustment control to turn off the gas - it should read somewhere between 0.7-1.0 bar. If you turn it to the right slowly and nothing happens, you may be out of gas.

We don't have a spare regulator which is currently our biggest risk - we will hopefully have this before the next FF. Korea follows the EU/German standard for CO2 cylinder threads (W21.8-14 / DIN 477 No. 6) so U.S. regulators don't fit (those are CGA320).

Gas Setup

The Fleischmeister kegerator has a four-way manifold inside, which means it delivers the same CO2 pressure to all kegs. You are going to have foaming issues if you have either too much or too little pressure. Start with 0.9 Bar/12PSI and balance it for whatever works best for the majority of what you have on tap. At FF44, we had Gorilla Lager, Gorilla IPA, and Playground ales. Three were happy at 0.7 bar while the lager saw some gas separation and foaming. Avoid mixing beers with wildly different pressure requirements - Korean mass-market lager beers like Cass and Terra are highly carbonated and will have major foaming/separation issues when served alongside the beers we normally have on tap. If you reduce the pressure, you need to pull the vent ring on the regulator before the new setpoint is reflected on the gauge.

The ideal solution would be to replace the manifold with a secondary regulator, but this is pricey. You could also up the pressure and try using the flow control faucets, inline restrictors, or extra beer line on the other beers to balance the system.

Gas Refills/Cylinders

Our large tanks are each good for at least two Fleischfests and everything in between. Try not to remove the wrap from an unopened cylinder until the old one is completely empty so we don't end up refilling a cylinder with a lot of gas still remaining. I've been going to:

• Dongyang Gas +82-31-764-6635
• 경기 광주시 곤지암읍 경충대로 820
• Website / Naver Maps

Check the certification date painted on the cylinder before you bring it down for a refill as it'll need to be tested and recertified if it is beyond that date. It takes a few weeks to get those back retested and refilled if they pass, so plan ahead. Refills cost 15-16500 won depending on the cylinder size and testing/recertification costs 36000 won.

Cleaning

Clean and flush the lines using the cleaning keg with every use. I've been getting powdered line cleaner (here or here) because I can ship it when I order other parts, but you can surely find liquid cleaner locally. The longer beer sits in the lines the more work will be required, so if you have a partial keg you don't expect people to be drinking in the next couple of days you should disconnect the coupler and clean the lines. Don't vent the keg before removing the coupler - you want the beer to stay carbonated at dispensing pressure.

When possible, use the multi-tool/spanner to remove the faucets from the shanks. The Intertap forward-sealing faucets are very easy to break down and clean (replacement seals/gaskets). There are a couple of flow control faucets in the equipment box if you need them for a specific beer, but I try to avoid using them as these are much harder to clean.

Clean the keg couplers at least every six months (and sooner if the system was not flushed and beer was left in them) and replace the beer lines annually. To break it down, disconnect the push-in quick connect couplers from the beer and gas lines. The multi-tool has notches for both the 8 mm (5/16 in.) beer lines and 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) gas lines that make this easier than holding the rings down with your fingernails.

A-type couplers are most commonly encountered with craft beers such as Gorilla, though G-type are used by some of the major Korean brewers. The difference between A and G is how the coupler secures to the keg - all the parts, seals, gaskets and cleaning instructions are identical.

Clean and service A & G type keg couplers / A-type Parts / G-type Parts

Playground uses a D-type coupler. The probe is removed from the top of the coupler body when cleaning, opposite from the A & G type.

Cleaning a D type (US Sankey) keg coupler / D-type Parts

Replacement and Service Parts

System parts wear out and sometimes break. In addition to seal & gasket sets for the faucets and couplers, you'll want at least one spare each of the following parts. Most are in the box, but you should check ahead of each Fleischfest:

• Push-In Fitting - 8 mm (5/16 in.) x 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) Reducer - You'll want a couple for when you get a loaner Korean keg coupler with 9.5mm beer fittings
• Push-In Fitting - 8 mm (5/16 in.) x Female Beer Thread - Beer side of keg couplers
• Push-In Fitting - 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) x Female Beer Thread - Gas side of keg couplers
• Push-In Fitting - 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) x 8 mm (5/16 in.) Reducer - Shank to beer line connector inside of the draft tower.
• Push-In Fitting - 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) x 1/4 in. Flare - Manifold to gas line fitting.
• Beer Faucet Shank
• 8mm OD (5/16 in.) beer tubing - replace beer line annually.
• 9.5mm OD (3/8 in.) gas tubing - replace as needed.
• Pump and Probe Keg Lubricant

Both John Guest and Duotight fittings hold up exceptionally well and are compatible so don't feel you need to stick with one brand or the other.